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Wallis Info


Hi everyone.  Glad to be back on the web site!!           

As you know I am in Oregon state, unfortunately not much for Massey 
Harris related activities in the Pacific NW.  We are fortunate to get 
6 or so Masseys  and about the same number of Fergusons at the Great 
Oregon Steam-Up where the total number of tractors on display 
approaches 400.

I have a 1931 Four wheel drive that I show, another OHV that needs 
complete restoration, a MH Wallis 20-30 , a Massey Harris 50 that I 
have just repaired and painted and a Ferguson TO35.  The latter two I 
use here mostly during haying.

I enjoy the Clipper and have gained much from the website forum on 
Wallis tractors.  I have recently started working on the Wallis 20-30 
and would like to participate in the forum.  I will be needing plenty of help!!

Thanks

Alan

RE:Wallis Info


 

Thanks to Gary for making the first ever post for me based on my email to him. As he mentioned  I have recently started working on the Wallis 20-30  and would like to participate  in the forum mostly at first with questions.

 

My first questions, the serial number stamped on the chassis of my tractor is 64165             and the engine is stamped   63694  .  I thought I had read somewhere that this was typical and not an indication that the engine had been replaced at some later date.  Is this correct and if so is the difference in numbers 471 always the same?  Also would 1930 be the likely date of manufacture for my tractor? 

 

A few years ago I visited the tractor Museum in Red Deer, Alberta primarily to see their Lanz but found this Wallis with its serial number plate with the interesting statement “we want the public to know that the Wallis tractor is made by the JI Case Plow Works, Inc of Racine, Wisconsin, and is NOT the product of any other company with “JI CASE” as part of its name”.  I had not seen this on other Wallis plates.  I have read of the daily squabble over the mail at the Racine post office.    It seems the two companies were really upset at one another.

Many thanks , Alan

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RE:Wallis Info

Hi Alan,

Welcome to the site! Nice looking 20-30 you have there! Your engine is correct for the tractor and has not been replaced as it is 471 numbers off just as it should be. I believe it is a 1929 there may be some dates on the block just below the head gasket toward the front on the left side of the block or there may be a date cast into the top of the head under the valve cover just below the rocker shaft toward the center of the head.

If you want to learn a lot about Wallis Tractors go back and look under the Wallis Tractors thread there is about 20 pages of Wallis info on there and things you won't find anywhere else on the internet.

Do you have any pictures of your GPs you can post? also the Serial numbers? I have been trying to take pictures of every GP I see and keep track of the serial number as someday I would like to put together a list with pictures and Serial numbers of all existing GPs but that project will be at a later date down the road sometime as my organization skills are poor and most of my pictures are in piles right now.

Look forward to hearing from you,
Joe

RE:Wallis Info

Hi Allan and Jo,  nice looking Wallis.  Since I now have mine under cover, I am starting to look at paint colours.  I have seen quite a few Wallis Grey colours and unfortunately your colour numbers do not match with anything we have down under.  You knowledgable gentlemen may be able to help with the colour grey and red wheels if you can.  Was it a grey similar to the ferguson grey or darker?
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RE:Wallis Info

Hi Joe,  Thanks for the reply, and for the year on my serial numbers.
I think I have mislead you, the green Wallis belongs to the museum in Red Deer and as far as I know is still there.  My 20-30 is a lot worse.  It went through a valley flood in Washington state before I purchased it, and then it has been through a barn fire.The pictures below are my tractor just prior to lifting the engine and gearbox out of the U frame and then the major pieces dismantled laying on a cradle made of two timbers and some angle iron.  I didn't know how to support the pieces when separating the engine from the g'box so that was my solution. I greased the angle iron rails and the engine slid away from the g'box easily.  The pistons and bores are ok but the crank and bearings need work.  So far the local machine shops I've talked to don't want to do babbitt bearings and none of them can line bore the mains. Looks like I will have to learn to pour Babbitt.   I can machine the rod bearings but am not set up to line bore the block.  Will continue to pursue some leads.
I will look for photos of my OHD GP and then provide photos and S/Ns.  Should I send these direct to your email so as not to clutter up the wallis thread?   

Best wishes, Alan

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RE:Wallis Info

Alan,

I don't know what I was thinking as I knew we were talking about two different tractors and I knew your tractor was a later Massey built tractor and not a Plow Works Tractor It just goes to show you how the mind can play tricks on you...

I don't know if you have anyone in your area that will do the babbiting but if you need to send them out there is a guy in South Dakota that does great work but it is not cheap. I believe the main bearings are just inserts and can be sent in to re Babbitt them too, I believe he can machine them to what ever you need so it wouldn't need line boring I will have to dig for his info but I do have it somewhere in the pile here.

You can either send me pictures of the GPs direct at joenjop@dishup.us  or better yet to get some practice in using the web page click on the discussion forum and locate the Massey Harris GP thread and post it on there. I don't know if you have come across that thread yet but if you want to learn a lot about the GPs there is a lot of good information on there and you may learn a thing or two in the processes. 

Did you find any dates on your Wallis block or Head? Some are marked and some are not.

Joe

RE:Wallis Info

Joe,        As far as babbitting the main bearings you must be right, the parts book shows that  bearing shells to suit 1/16  undersize crankshaft were available.  So that means I can probably do it in my shop, I much prefer that to sending the work out.  I will have to make a fixture to hold the two bearing halves on the lathe faceplate to bore to size. Will let you know how I get on.  
Haven't been able to find any date stamps on the engine.
Just posted pictures of my two GPs on the Four Wheel Drive forum.
Many thanks for your help, Alan



RE:Wallis Info

Wallis Crankshaft Question

I am working on the engine of a 1929 Wallis 20-30 and just picked up the reground crankshaft from a local machine shop. The machinist said ” Oh you might need this, it came out of the flywheel end of the crankshaft” . He handed me a steel dowel pin       0. 235 inch diameter and about 1 1/2 inches long.  Sure enough it slipped easily into a 1/4 inch hole in the end of the crankshaft that is about three inches deep and intersects with another  .128 inch diameter cross hole leading to the rear main bearing.   See small hole on the right in the photo.  

So, is this intended to lubricate the pilot bearing and should the dowel pin be there to restrict the amount of flow?  In my case the pilot bearing is shielded on both sides so that wouldn’t do much good but I could remove one of the shields.  I cannot find this dowel pin in the parts manual.

Has anyone seen this on other Wallis engines, any thoughts?    

Also what is a reasonable torque value for the rod bolts?   Basic torque tables suggest that for 5/8 x 18, 102 ft. lbs for Grade 5 and 144 ft.lbs for Grade 8. Or do I torque it to about 100 ft. lbs then tighten further till the split pin hole lines up?

Many thanks, Alan Painter, Brownsville, Oregon.

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